It was drizzling when I stepped onto the paved walkway of what is dubbed the oldest botanical garden in Southeast Asia: the Bogor Botanical Garden or Kebun Raya Bogor. “Kebun raya” means botanical garden in English. This natural treasure is nestled in Bogor, called the “Rainy City,” much like Seattle in the United States, as it practically rains every afternoon. Bogor is just 40 minutes away from Central Jakarta, Indonesia, without traffic.
The last international academic partner we visited during our recent trip to Indonesia, Institut Bisnis dan Informatika (IBI) Kesatuan, is just a few steps from the botanical garden. It was the natural and healthy breather everyone needed after a week of hopping from one school to another for lectures, focus group discussions, seminars, and cultural exchange activities—not to mention late nights and early mornings spent traveling.
As we stepped into the garden, we were mesmerized by the expansive and sprawling 87-hectare property that houses 3,500 plant species, 1,273 genera in 199 families, and 12,000 specimens. The garden also boasts 400 species of palm trees, 5,000 trees from around the tropical world, and an orchid house with 3,000 varieties.
I walked under the canopy of lush foliage and listened to the nearby Ciliwung [Chi-li-woong] River rushing over large boulders. The cold breeze enveloped me as I explored the tropical garden set against the backdrop of Mt. Salak, an eroded volcano in West Java. Historical accounts reveal that German botanist C.G.C. Reinwardt established the garden on May 18, 1817, when it was only 47 hectares.
My favorite spot was the pond filled with lotus flowers, framed by the Bogor Palace in the background. In 2017, Indonesian President Joko Widodo hosted former U.S. President Barack Obama for lunch at the Presidential Palace within the extensive botanical garden. The same palace also welcomed King Salman of Saudi Arabia during his visit to Indonesia. I couldn’t stop taking photos of the huge pink lotus blooms, which were so picture-perfect! I sat on one of the benches under the lush natural shade. The dominant green hues of the garden were visually refreshing, calming the body and soothing the soul.
Among the interesting gnarled trees in this extensive research and conservation garden are the twin giant Kapok trees (Ceiba pentandra). These tropical native to Mexico were planted in 1920 and are said to bear white flowers between August and September. According to our tour guide, Farida, the falling white flowers resemble snow when the winds are strong.
We also passed through Astrid Avenue, named after the Princess of Belgium, who spent her honeymoon in the garden. Our tour guide pointed out that the flowers and leaves along the avenue bear the colors of Belgium’s flag.
Since it is impossible to cover the expansive garden, featuring manicured beds and diverse plant collections, guests can rent a buggy car, bicycle, or electric bike with a guide to explore the whole garden. However, for people like me who love long walks, nothing beats a quiet stroll under the canopy of thick trees and vibrant flowers. A favorite spot for visiting families is the picnic area, just a few blocks from the avenue.
The garden is home to rare species, including the Baobab tree, typically found in dry regions of Africa. This tree has a massive trunk that stores water, earning it the nickname “massive hydro homie.” Its fruit tastes sour due to its high vitamin C content—three times more than an orange. Another fascinating specimen is the tallest bamboo in Kebun Raya: Dendrocalamus giganteus from Myanmar. This giant bamboo grows up to 30 meters tall and can grow about 20 centimeters daily. The “couple tree” is also worth noting—two distinct species growing together since 1966. The tree with the dark bark (Meranti tembaga) represents the man, while the light-barked ficus (white banyan) represents the woman.
Our visit concluded at the Secret Garden, a restaurant and café with a neat, spacious interior and large glass windows that allow guests to enjoy views of the garden’s rich biodiversity. Across the restaurant, a souvenir shop offers memorabilia, ornamental plants, and keepsakes like shirts, bags, caps, and toys. I couldn’t resist grabbing bottles of essential oils for my diffuser—wisteria and lavender, rosemary and mint, gardenia and berries.
Terima kasih banyak (Thank you very much) to the universe for this pleasant and wonderful surprise. Not everyone gets the chance to see such a wonder. Special thanks to Dr. Ratih Puspitasari and Sir Dicky of IBI Kesatuan for arranging our visit to Kebun Raya. Plantitos and plantitas will instantly fall in love with cantik (beautiful) Kebun Raya Bogor.
Believe me, you don’t have to love plants to fall in love with this garden.*
