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Mie and sop buntut

Everything Chinese takes center stage in both online and traditional media this week as the Year of the Snake begins, following the 12-year Chinese zodiac cycle. Since January 29, we have indulged in Chinese delicacies such as dumplings, noodles, and tikoy. Today, my column will also highlight noodles—but this time, from Indonesia, where they are called mie. This also explains why we Filipinos refer to our noodle dish as mami.

My return to Indonesia in November last year was filled with wonderful experiences—its people, scenery, and most of all, its food! The moment we set foot in Kota Tasikmalaya, we were so famished that we swore we would eat at the nearest restaurant or food joint to our hotel. Mind you, we had just endured nearly 12 hours of travel by air and land.

And then—whoa! Just a few steps away from where we were staying, we found a place. Without hesitation, we decided to satisfy our hunger there, regardless of what was on the menu. That’s how we ended up at Mie Gacoan [gah-chwan]. Mie means noodles, while gacoan comes from a Javanese word meaning “champion” or “favorite.”

Yasss!, Kyrie, Doc Mark, MJ, Doc Mima and Doc Mae enjoying the savory, hot and spicy feast at Mie Gacoan; right photo, sop buntut, an iconic Indonesia soup dish made of buntut sapi or oxtail meat, carrots, potatoes, shallots, garlic, ginger and onions. Nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon, salt, sugar and white pepper further enhance the soup’s flavor.*
Yasss! at the Pagoda in Pantjoran which is located at the far end of PIK. A massive statue of the goddess Ci Hang Dao REN or Guan Yin Niang Niang (Kwan Yin) stands. Since Guan Yin Niang Niang is known as the bodhisattva of infinite compassion and mercy, many people burn incense and pray on her altar.*

We were excited as we browsed the menu, especially when we saw the food choices and their surprisingly affordable prices. A bowl of Mie Gacoan costs only 11,500 IDR (around ₱41.46). Mie Gacoan is a fried noodle dish that is both sweet and savory, with just a hint of spice. Customers can choose their preferred spice level, ranging from zero to ten—yes, ten!

Another option is Mie Hompimpa, which costs the same. Unlike Mie Gacoan, this dish features savory and salty noodles, and its spice levels also range from zero to ten. For those who prefer milder flavors or are not fans of spicy food, there’s Mie Suit—savory, salty noodles without the fiery kick of different kinds of chili peppers grown in Indonesian backyards and restaurants.

We all agreed that we would be adventurous in trying out delicacies that we were not able to try the first time we were in Indonesia for a business trip, and that we would order one of every kind of dish that we would find visually appealing and we are all game to try. I got a Mie Gacoan Level 1 thinking that it would be the safest pick, with minimal risk. I added siomay ayam or steamed savory chicken dumplings and a glass of iced cold es teh or lemon iced tea. 

While I was happy with the Mie Gacoan I ordered—especially since a single serving was generous enough for two people and was truly flavorful—I didn’t expect it to be that spicy. What they call Level 1 felt more like Level 6 to me! But I was so hungry—and at the same time enjoying how delicious my meal was—that I just kept devouring the noodle treat. However, I had to take gulps of es teh every now and then to neutralize what felt like fire burning inside my mouth. I could even feel my ears burning—haha! It was too late to have my noodles replaced with a Level 0 mie.

Nevertheless, it was definitely a fun and gastronomically satisfying meal. Two servings of es teh helped my taste buds recover from the extreme heat. Needless to say, it was an indulgence that didn’t break the bank. We ordered six mie dishes, six lemon iced teas, udang keju (cheese shrimp), udang rambutan, and lumpia udang (shrimp spring rolls), yet our total bill was just a little over P700. When converted to Indonesian Rupiah, our bill came out to more or less 2.38 million IDR.

SOP BUNTUT

And then there was sop buntut. Just like in Filipino, buntut refers to the tail of an ox. Sop buntut means oxtail soup.

When my good friend and gym buddy Jean learned that I was going to Indonesia for the first time in June, she highly recommended that I try sop buntut, which is served at Borobudur Hotel. Jean Michelle Gimena-Montinola, a former international flight attendant and fellow foodie, raved about this dish. However, my schedule during my June trip was so packed that I never even got the chance to see what this famous Indonesian dish looked like.

So, when I had a second opportunity to visit Indonesia in November, I made sure that my team from STI West Negros University and I would finally have a bowl of sop buntut. And oh my, Jean was right! It was a bowl of pure warmth! But more than that, it was an incredibly flavorful dish that I truly enjoyed. The broth was hot, spicy, and rich, yet not too overpowering on the palate. The meat was incredibly tender, with some parts almost melting in my mouth. The aroma filled my senses, allowing me to savor the blend of herbs and spices that made the dish so rich and unforgettable.

I did a little research and found that this soup dish is made using oxtail, or buntut sapi in Indonesian, along with water, potatoes, carrots, shallots, garlic, ginger, and onions. Nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon, salt, sugar, and white pepper further enhance the soup’s flavor.

Pantjoran PIK’s massive gate with colorful and intricate design. When you visit PIK, you will see is stone bridges and several Chinese pavilions with stone tables and stools.*
Fried dim sum. Lumpia udang, syumay ayam, udang keju and udang rambutan.*

This is a dish that every guest in Indonesia must make an effort to try—it is truly an iconic delicacy. I came across an article about sop buntut that mentioned, “If a restaurant serves sop buntut at all, it will be really hard to miss since it is probably the most expensive dish on the menu.” The reason for its high price is that buntut (oxtail) is one of the more premium cuts of beef, comparable to some of the choicest selections.

If you have time to explore Jakarta, don’t miss Pantjoran Chinatown PIK. PIK stands for Pantai Indah Kapuk, an area where many Chinese Indonesians, or Chindos, used to live. Today, it is a popular destination, especially during long holidays and weekends, attracting both locals and tourists.

This vibrant Chinese culinary center boasts well-designed food parks that serve delicious yet reasonably priced food. My favorite landmark is the towering five-story pagoda, adorned with intricate designs. Its dominant red walls and balcony railings are beautifully accented with stained glass windows and sculptures that sit atop its gray roof.

PIK’s overall aesthetic resembles a charming, well-maintained Chinese village, offering numerous Instagrammable spots, including murals depicting Chinese culture, such as opera performers and lion dancers. Colorful lanterns and umbrellas crisscross the courtyard, adding to the lively atmosphere. Another must-see is the small garden featuring stone statues of the twelve Chinese zodiac animals—a perfect spot for social media-worthy snapshots.*

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